Sewing Crafts: How to Make Your Own Wristlet Purse

Purses are an essential part of every female's existence. From young girls to seasoned senior ladies, we have to have someplace to keep all our stuff. Once upon a time even men carried purses, though they weren't like the saddlebags women tote around today. 

When you're headed out on the town and you don't need anything more than your phone, ID, and a card/some cash, a wristlet is the ideal choice. 

Originally published December 2010.

How to Make a Wristlet Purse

There are many occasions on which a woman may only need a purse large enough to carry her keys, identification, a little money, and/or a credit card and perhaps a lipstick. On these occasions a large handbag, such as the type generally carried day to day to hold everything, is just too cumbersome.

While the clutch purse is an attractive option, it has no strap like a shoulder bag, which means a woman has to hold it in her hand the entire evening. This may not be an issue at the theater, but at a party it means she only has one free hand with which to eat, drink and greet.

This is where the wristlet comes in handy. It is small and practical like a clutch, but has a short strap that allows it to be worn at the end of the arm like a bracelet. The strap can be attached as a zipper pull or sewn onto one of the side seams of the purse. The wristlet bag can be made from almost any material that you can put a needle through and sew. Even if you don’t have sewing skills you can adapt a small cosmetic bag or a change purse to function as a wristlet.

To make an unlined wristlet purse you will need a pattern, square of fabric, needle and thread, (or a sewing machine) straight pins, a zipper or Velcro, (or other fastener appropriate for your design) and the material for your strap such as a piece of ribbon or leather. Your square of fabric should large enough that when folded in half you have ample room for the items you plan to carry in it. If you want to eliminate the need for a zipper, you’ll want to use a rectangle of fabric that will allow you to fold the fabric three times (like a brochure) in order to create a flap to close the purse.

To begin, place the fabric flat on a clean work surface with the right side facing upward. Lay the zipper against one edge and pin it to the fabric, placing the pins close to the edge. Turn the fabric to the wrong side and fold down the edge with the zipper approximately one-eighth of an inch and press. Stitch the zipper to the fabric square.

Fold down one-eighth of an inch from the opposite edge of the square and attach it to the other side of the zipper. You should now have a fabric tube.  If attaching the strap to the side seam, turn the tube inside out and attach the strap to the end where the zipper closes. (If not attaching this way skip to the next paragraph.) Depending on the width of the strap you can attach it on the outside over the ends of the fabric or hide it inside by turning under the fabric edges and sewing through the layers of fabric and the strap to close up the side of the purse.

Unzip the zipper and turn the tube inside out again. Sew the open side according to the method you chose for the side with the strap. If you are attaching the strap to the zipper pull, close up the side seams leaving a one-eighth inch seam allowance. Turn the bag right side out again and sew the strap to the zipper pull. 

Once you’ve made one wristlet purse you can make dozens more. Experiment with shapes and materials to create your own unique designs to match your entire party wardrobe.

How to Choose the Best Fabric for Sewing Projects

It's late November already and to say I am severely slacking in my progress of the great article migration is a gross understatement. Time is a precious commodity, and I just never seem to have enough of it. Add to that my recent computer problems and it will be a miracle if I manage to save my published articles on Helium from disappearing into oblivion.

After spending what seemed like several hours on someone else's computer trying to figure out how to access my account (when I'm used to not having to type in a web address) and finally gaining access, I realized that for many of the "Where to find..." type titles, I would not simply be able to copy and paste, click save, preview, and publish.

The reality of having to take out the time to re-check all the hyperlinks and update the previously published information created a new problem. Then, all of a sudden, it occurred to me that I didn't have to publish the articles at once in order to transfer them. I could simply save them as drafts and re-publish as I had time.

Whew! Thank heaven for small favors!

So without further ado...

How to Choose the right Fabric for a Sewing Project

Choosing the right fabric for a sewing project is very important. The wrong fabric can cause a number of issues with a garment, accessory or home décor item. The right fabric can mean the difference between proper fit, durability and easy care, while the wrong fabric can spell disaster.

• Clothing

When sewing clothing from a store-bought sewing pattern, it is easy to find the right fabric for the job. On back of every sewing pattern there is a guide to help determine exactly what type of fabric is suitable for the item you wish to sew. The pattern’s guide will also list fabrics that are unsuitable for the garment as well.

There are a number of reasons to follow the guidelines on back of the pattern when deciding on an appropriate fabric for your project. Patterns that are suitable for stretchy fabrics are generally not suitable for non-stretch fabrics as those fabrics do not have the give of knit fabrics. Using a non-stretch fabric in this instance will result in an ill-fitting garment.

Patterns for blouses and dresses that call for soft fabrics such as silk would not be suitable for heavier or stiffer, less flexible fabrics such as taffeta or wool and vice versa. Patterns for casual clothing or children’s play clothes, are generally best suited to fabric that is easy to care for such as cotton or linen, which is both durable and machine washable.

• Household items for indoors and out

To find a suitable fabric for a home décor item, sewing patterns also provide help, but not everything is made from a purchased pattern. Throw pillows, for instance can easily be made by cutting a square piece of fabric, sewing up the seams, and stuffing the pillow with fiber fill. Choosing the fabric for the pillow will depend on where it is to be used.

Indoors, pillows for the bed or sofa can be made of almost any washable fabric, but outdoors a heavier, more durable fabric is required such as canvas. A large pillow to be used as a bed for a dog or other pet, should also be made from a durable fabric that is easy to clean.

Table linens, bed quilts, runners, hot pads and so forth are generally not suited for silky fabrics and certain knits. Quilts though, can be made from silk, as long as the type of silk used is one that is washable, otherwise the quilt will have to be dry cleaned. Many stretch fabrics are made with synthetic fibers which makes them unsuitable for kitchen use for items such as hot pads.

• Accessories and toys

Hats, handbags and toys all have different fabric requirements. The silky fabric used for an evening bag is obviously not suitable for a child’s doll. The fleece or felt used for a simple winter hat, while durable, may not be the best choice for a clutch purse to match an after five or cocktail outfit.

When making dolls, doll clothing, soft blocks, or stuffed toys the fabric requirements are quite different from garments or household items. While a variety of fabrics are suitable for these items (cotton jersey, muslin, fleece), there are several, such as wool, that are not.

Sometimes finding the right fabric isn’t just about texture. Surface design such as stripes, diagonals or other “obvious” prints, may not work as well for your sewing project as you might expect. These types of fabrics are harder to cut to have the prints line up, especially when sewing clothing.

Finding the right fabric for your sewing project is a matter of matching the right weight and texture to the item you are making and, in the case of patterned fabric, choosing the right design to compliment your finished item.

Soap Molds from Homemade Items

Three years ago I created an article for Helium on making soap at home from glycerin cubes that you melt and pour into a purchased mold. These simple soaps can customized by adding coloring and scents of your choice. One of the other ways to make melt and pour soaps is to create them in your own homemade molds.

Interestingly enough, my article on homemade molds for soaps was published in May of 2010, a little over a year before the one on the basics of melt and pour soap. Of course I can't remember now if I suggested the title or if Helium posted it, but nonetheless, here it is:

Five Homemade Soap Molds

Making homemade soap can be a lot of fun especially when using melt and pour glycerin.  You simply break apart a few cubes, heat according to instruction and carefully pour the liquid into a waiting mold.  Just about any thing from a sea shell to a baking pan can serve as a homemade mold for your own custom soaps.

Some household items will be easier than others to turn into molds based on their flexibility.  Ice trays with fun party shapes would make great homemade molds for fashioning small sized custom guest soaps and there are a variety of shapes available on the market for doing so.  For more variety in appearance add soap colorant or powders.

Small food storage containers can easily serve as home made soap molds particularly those that are somewhat flexible or have sides that could be squeezed slightly to help in gently removing the soap after it has completely cooled and hardened.  Dried herbs in whole or ground form make a nice addition (and can add color, fragrance or both) to these simple soaps.

Baking pans such as muffin tins and tiny loaf pans are handy as use for homemade molds for individual round or rectangular shaped soaps.  Larger loaf pans could also be used to make a soap log that could then be cut into individual sized bars if making large quantities of soap.

Empty milk and juice cartons can be washed and used as makeshift homemade soap molds as well.  Cut the carton a few inches from the bottom to make a simple square mold when using smaller cartons.  Larger cartons will make much larger bricks of soap that will need to be sliced after cooling.  The waxy paper can be easily peeled away and discarded after use.

In a pinch disposable plastic or waxed paper cups (not Styrofoam) could be used as homemade soap molds.  In reality, pretty much any removable form that could be used to make candles could also be used to mold soaps as long as it is somewhat flexible.  (Do not use plastic cups for making candles however.)

Melt and pour soaps will start to harden on the top first making it somewhat hard to tell if they have completely solidified.  Be sure to let them cool completely and give them a little extra time to cure before attempting to remove them from their molds.

Working with Melt and Pour Soaps

Ever since I was a child I have been fascinated at the idea of making my own soap. As I grew older, I forgot about that desire for a while, and then along came that magical entity we all know as the internet. It took a while for the net to become populated with enough links and resources for soapmaking, and there was also the issue of recipes that used lye.

Eventually, with the rise in DIY and the renewed interest in crafts that had long faded from popularity, I lucked out with the discovery of the melt and pour kits at Walmart. I had a lot of fun for a while, especially when I experimented with some dried basil as an additive.

Once again I had a new interest in making soap, and though the melt and pour kit was fun for a while, I still wanted to make soap from scratch. After discovering soap lilies, I'd hoped to grow some of those, but life often gets in the way of one's passions and pastimes and I haven't had the opportunity as of yet.

As an avid crafter, I was excited to share what I had learned via a Helium article on soapmaking basics, as well as an additional article (to be posted to this blog shortly) on homemade molds for soapmaking.. Originally published in October of 2011:

Basics of Melt and Pour Soapmaking

Melt and pour soap making is a gratifying hobby that is easy to do and allows for the creation of custom soaps that can be personalized to any preference. At the basic level, all a person needs to be able to do is melt the soap cubes and pour the liquid into a waiting mold. It’s as simple and as basic as that; though there is some essential equipment needed to get started.

A good way to get started with melt and pour soap making is to purchase a kit. A basic prepackaged kit will contain glycerin cubes, a mold, coloring, and fragrance. Of course, there’s no rule that the coloring or fragrance provided has to be used in making the soap, and candy molds could be used to make small, decorative, guest soaps.

Because the glycerin cubes in the kit break apart easily, much like chocolate, melting is much easier than buying glycerin in bulk and having to cut it down into smaller pieces. Also, the smaller cubes make it easy to create as much or as little soap as desired at one time.

Though melt and pour soap can be heated in the microwave, the best way to melt the glycerin soap cubes is in a stainless steel bowl that has been placed in hot water double-boiler style. Once the soap is completely melted it is time to add the fragrance and or coloring. The best fragrance to use will be a pure essential oil, though dried herbs can also be used for fragrance as well as color. Gently stir in a few drops of oil, or add the herbs a little at a time until the desired color is achieved.

The melt and pour soap will have to cool over several hours before they are completely hardened all the way through. Once it is completely cured, the glycerin bar should pop out easily from the mold. Using individual molds, while not necessary, eliminates the need for cutting the soap into bars once it has cured. A variety of household items can be used for molding soap in addition to the plain molds that come with melt and pour kits, from ice trays to mini muffin tins.

Once the basics of melt and pour soap have been mastered, a variety of fun, fanciful or decorative soaps can be created with a little imagination and experimenting (much like cooking and creating recipes). Any additions used with the glycerin, especially for color, should be those proven to be safe for the skin.

How to Make Your Own Special Occasion Corsage

Continuing with the effort to migrate my multitude of Helium articles, here's one I forgot I ever wrote, and just in time too now that both prom and wedding season are in full force. My aunt used to make these regularly for and people for their weddings and sorority gatherings and so forth.

How to make your own Corsage

Making your own corsage is not only practical, it’s quick, easy and filled with unlimited possibilities. Whether you’re planning your wedding, attending a dance, party, or club event or even if you just like wearing fresh flowers, a one-of-a-kind corsage, is both a lovely accessory and a potential conversation starter.

Traditional corsages are typically a mini floral arrangement of one or more main flowers accompanied by smaller accent flowers and/or greenery. The arrangement can be made from either fresh or artificial flowers and can also include beaded accents, ribbons, feathers or other embellishments of your choice.

Though corsages are usually made from more than one flower, very pretty corsages can also be made with one very large flower or its equivalent (such as a ribbon or paper rosette). Of course, it’s also possible to use something besides flowers (such as holiday miniatures). A quick trip to the craft or novelty store will give you an idea of the great range of what your inclusion options are.

Some traditional flower choices for corsages are roses, orchids, gardenias, and carnations, but almost any favorite flower can be used. Choose a corsage flower based on color and fragrance, but also try to pick one that has a little staying power. The last thing you want is to have your corsage wilt as soon as you step out of your door.

If you want to go eco-friendly with your choice, you can use paper flowers or those made from ribbon, crochet or knitting. Felt or other fabric flowers can be used as well for making corsages, but if working with a recycled material, stay away from metals or plastics as these might scratch.

Corsages are generally worn on the left and can be placed on the shoulder of a dress or cover up such as a shrug, sweater, or jacket, the bodice of a dress, at the waist, or wrist. Some modern girls even wear their corsages on the ankle. In cases where having a corsage on the body doesn’t work, it can alternatively be attached to an evening bag.

When making your own corsage, consider the occasion, what outfit you will be wearing, the season and whether you might prefer it pinned on or around your wrist. A simple nosegay is easy to put together with little more than flowers and floral tape, while a floral “bracelet” will require elastic or some other means for keeping the corsage securely on the wrist.

The advantage of using an artificial flower is that they can either be sewn or glued to the wristlet band, they can stand up to a little crush action if someone hugs you, and you won’t have to worry you’re your flower of choice might wilt. Also, you aren’t limited to only using seasonal flowers.

The main advantage of using fresh flowers to create your own corsage is fragrance. A flower with a heavy perfume such as rose or gardenia will not only look great, it will make you smell great as well. When combining flowers, be sure to choose ones that are complimentary in fragrance as well in color.

Wrist corsages from the florist are typically made with an elastic corsage wristlet. These can be purchased from a craft store, or made from a piece of elastic from your sewing basket. Alternatives to elastic include ribbon, fabric bands, and slap bracelets.

Basic corsage how to

Supplies needed:

1 large centerpiece Flower

Leaves, pearls, or other corsage embellishments

Floral wire (or, in a pinch, you can use a paper clip)

Floral tape

Long straight pin or extra-large safety pins

Note: Keep your flower in the refrigerator until you have assembled all of your supplies.

To begin, trim the stem to about half an inch below the flower head using scissors or pruners. Cut a piece of floral wire about for inches long and bend the tip of one end into a U shape (if you have them, needle nosed pliers will make this step easier.)

If using a paper clip, bend the wire back until you have a long straight end with a U curve (like a very long J).  Take the wire J and carefully insert the long end into the top of your flower slightly to the side of its center.  (The center of the U part will ultimately rest of the middle of the flower head).

Gently pull/push the wire down until the short tip goes into the flower as well. Wrap the floral tape around the bottom of the flower head so that it is covering the wire, and continue wrapping in a spiral motion until the entire base of the flower is covered.

Hold a leaf behind the flower with the stem against the wire below the flower base. Wrap the floral tape around the leaf to add it to the corsage. Note: Try to choose accent leaves that are large enough to show from behind your flower and that have long enough stems (think maple or grape sized). Add at least one more leaf, bend the bottom end of your wire up against your taped stem, and cover the end with tape.

If adding an embellishment such as a pearl spray, place it between the flower and the leaves. It may help to lay everything flat on the surface of a table to see how things look and make adjustments for placement before taping it all together.

Once the loose wire end is safely tucked away under the floral tape the corsage is ready for wear.